INCI NAME

Malpighia Glabra (Acerola) Fruit Extract, Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate

INCI NAME

Malpighia Glabra (Acerola) Fruit Extract, Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate

INCI NAME

QUIDITAT NWP
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Hypnea Musciformis Extract, Gelidiella Acerosa Extract, Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate.

Exposome and skin health

The aging exposome, comprising environmental factors like solar radiation, pollution (e.g. PAHs) and lifestyle, significantly impacts skin health, driving premature aging.

These factors induce damage through oxidative stress and inflammation, leading to structural degradation of the skin. This compromises the skin barrier, emphasizing the need to mitigate harm for overall cutaneous health.

Natural ingredients such as cucumber, with its antioxidant and soothing properties, and Hypnea musciformis , a source of beneficial sulfated polysaccharides, combat skin issues related to environmental stressors.

Cucumber
ASSESSA technology enhanced components

Cucumber (Cucumis sativus), historically used in ancient skincare and still applied topically today, benefits the skin due to its composition. Its high water content provides hydration, while antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds help neutralize oxidative stress, soothe irritation, and support skin barrier function.

These properties contribute to its traditional use for hydrating and calming compromised skin. On the other hand, industrial products based on cucumber extracts do not have the same benefits. The conventional processes cannot extract the bioactive molecules of cucumber, thus nullifying benefits. Aware of this challenge, ASSESSA scientists developed a unique technology to extract and enhance the activity of all valuable components of the cucumber.

Anti-inflammatory activity

(In vitro tests)

Protection of keratinocytes

QUIDITAT NWP is efficient in the protection of cells exposed by surfactants.

PGE release in keratinocytes irradiadet by UV

QUIDITAT NWP reduces inflammation caused by UV radiation, and the release of PGE by 90% in cultures of keratinocytes submitted to irradiation with UVB. It is more efficient than Beta-glucan and Echinacea extract as an anti-inflammatory ingredient.

PGE release in skin cells treated with acids

Quiditat NWP can reduce the release of prosta-glandin E by 88% when phenol is applied and by 83% when is applied salicilic acid to a culture of human keratinocytes.

A release of inflammatory mediators in skin cells treated with surfactants

Preclinical evaluation

(Ex-vivo tests)

TNF-α QUANTIFICATION

Exposure to the pollution stress promoted an increase of 22.04% in TNF-α synthesis, compared to basal control. The evaluated product with QUIDITAT NWP 2% showed a protective effect, reducing TNF-α production by 19,20% respectively, compared to the pollution group and 14.94% lower than its placebo.

AhR quantification

AhR QUANTIFICAtion AhR (Aryl hydrocarbon Receptors), found in all skin cells, is crucial for skin health and immunity, acting as a sensor that triggers skin responses to various internal and external molecules, especially pollution and light exposure. Reducing the expression of AhRs is directly related to the protection os the skin from pollutants.

Exposure to the pollution stress promoted an increase of 66.27% in AhR synthesis, compared to control. QUIDITAT NWP 2% reduces the expression of AhR receptors by 44.44% compared to the control group and 40.00% compared to the placebo group.

Claims

• Exposome shield
• Anti-Pollution/Urban Pollution
• Reduces smoke-induced inflammation response
• Reduces pollution-induced skin damage
• Powerful soothing effect against physical and chemical aggressors on the skin

Usage levels

INCI NAME

Acacia Senegal Gum, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Fragaria Vesca Fruit Extract, Morus Nigra Fruit Extract and Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract.

What is glycation?

1. Antiglycation Activity

Antiglycation activity (in vitro)

The glycation inhibitory activity of NEOBERRY was compared to L-Carnosine using fluorimetry. NEOBERRY at 0.1% is five times more effective than l-carnosine.

2. Antiglycation activity in human fibroblasts

Fibroblasts Polarity Index (in vitro)

The inhibitory effects of NEOBERRY and aminoguanidine (AG), a standard antiglycation agent, on methylglyoxal (MGO)-induced glycation were evaluated in human fibroblasts. Glycation levels were quantified using a cellular polarization index. NEOBERRY effectively reverses fibroblast glycation and demonstrates superior anti-glycation activity compared to aminoguanidine (AG).

3. Preclinical efficacy of NEOBERRY in preventing and reversing AGE formation in human skin

4. Preclinical efficacy of NEOBERRY on collagen production in human skin

CLAIMS

1. Prevents skin glycation
2. Reverses sugar-induced aging
3. Boost the skin’s natural collagen production
4. Reverts the generation of early glycated products
5. Superior performance compared to L-Carnosine and Aminoguanidine
6. Preservative-free, encapsulated and natural product

Usage levels

Quattro

QUATTRO detangles, replenishes hair mass, nourishes, moisturizes, softens, and protects hair against heat damage.

Curly and coily hair are characterized by a lack of alignment, increased volume, and difficulty combing. Curls and coils are also naturally more susceptible to tangles, damage, and breakage.

QUATTRO is a vegetable emulsion made from plant-derived ingredients, rich in unsaturated fatty acids, vegetable proteins and polymers that form a protective film over the cuticle, deeply nourishing and conditioning the strands, improving detangling and preventing the formation of fairy knots. It is an active ingredient that meets the specific needs of type 3 and 4 hair, prioritizing the integrity and beauty of curly and coily hair.

INCI Name

Salvia hispanica (Chia) Seed Extract, Cyamopsis tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) seed oil, Lecithin, Glyceryl Stearate, Squalane, Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate.

Tests QUATTRO

1 Hydration and Thermal Protection by Calorimetry (DSC)

2 Effectiveness in detangling wet coily hair

3 Penetration into the hair fiber (nutrition)

The ability of QUATTRO to penetrate and nourish the hair fiber was evaluated by fluorescence microscopy. To do this, the strands were immersed in Rhodamine B, a fluorescent dye that binds to damaged areas of the hair. The intensity of fluorescence observed under the microscope indicates the degree of penetration of the product: the lower the fluorescence, the greater the penetration.

Microscopy

Fluorescence microscopy images of representative cortical segments of the control (CTRL), QUATTRO 2% leave-on (T01), and placebo leave-on (T02) groups.

Fluorescence intensity (average ± standard deviation)

Hair samples subjected to treatment with QUATTRO (2%) showed LOWER fluorescence intensity than those of the control and placebo groups, indicating greater active ingredient penetration into the hair. The QUATTRO leave-on treatment (2%) showed better efficacy for the claims of “deep nutrition,” “fiber healing,” and “mass repla-cement” when compared to the CTRL and placebo groups.

4 Hair softness through the Ring Compressibility Method

The objective of this test was to evaluate the softness of hair fibers through the Ring Compressibility Method.

Variation in softness

The formula with QUATTRO improved hair softness by 34% and is 20% better than the placebo.

What is exposome?

The term exposome describes the totality of exposures to which an individual is subjected from conception to death. It includes both external and internal factors, as well as the human body’s response to these factors.

Exposome & hair

Hair and natural defenses

Unlike skin, hair has no natural defenses against free radicals, making it vulnerable to oxidative damage like UV radiation, urban pollution, cigarette smoke, temperature and moisture. Aging hair is also vulnerable to oxidative stress and structural changes like unprotected cuticles, compromised lipid surfaces, defenseless cortex, lack of shine and difficulty combing.

Mechanism of action
Selected raw materials

Hair cuticle shield

Upcycling
creating new ingredients of biomass waste

Assessa has developed a green process to extract valuable molecules from the industrial ginger waste of a juice factory.

Protocol 1

Exposome exposure

The Ci3000+, Fade-Ometer, and Q-Sun cham-bers simulated the hair exposome. By replicating sunlight, temperature, humidity, and moisture, these chambers accelerated the effects of environmental factors on hair, providing valuable insights into its resistance to damage. In these chambers, strands of natural Caucasian hair were subjected to wash cycles, treatments with products as described, and UV exposure cycles totaling 100 hours.

Gloss

Tests performed with glossmeter (BYK Gardner®) equipment

Shampoo + conditioner placebo + leave on placebo
Shampoo ZinBloq 1% + conditioner ZinBloq 1% + leave on ZinBloq 2%

Combability of wet hair

Tests carried out with instron 23-2S device (Bluehill 4.21 software)

Shampoo + conditioner placebo + leave on placebo
Shampoo ZinBloq 1% + conditioner ZinBloq 1% + leave on ZinBloq 2%

Combability of dry hair

Tests carried out with instron 23-2S device (Bluehill 4.21 software)

Shampoo + conditioner placebo + leave on placebo
Shampoo ZinBloq 1% + conditioner ZinBloq 1% + leave on ZinBloq 2%

Protocol 2

Exposome exposure

In chambers used to simulate the effects of sunlight and weathering, strands of natural Caucasian hair were subjected to wash cycles, treatments with products as described, and UV exposure cycles totaling 100 hours.

Diameter (capillary integrity)

Tests performed with micrometer

Treatment with spray leave on placebo and spray leave on ZinBloq 2%

Epicuticle protection

Tests performed by scanning electron microscopy

Treatment with spray leave on placebo and spray leave on ZinBloq 2%

F-layer protection

Tests performed with goniometer

Treatment with spray leave on placebo and spray leave on ZinBloq 2%

Protocol 3

Exposome exposure
(damaged hair)

In chambers used to simu-late the effects of sunlight and weathering, strands of damaged Caucasian hair were subjected to wash cycles, and treated with products as described, with UV exposure cycles totaling 100 hours.

Usage levels