INCI NAME

Malpighia Glabra (Acerola) Fruit Extract, Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate

INCI NAME

Malpighia Glabra (Acerola) Fruit Extract, Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate

INCI NAME

Spondias Mombin Fruit Extract, Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate

Frulix Cajá
Antioxidant for skin and hair cares

Caja pulp has a strong yellow color and contains significant amounts of antioxidant compounds such as phenolics, carotenoids, tannins, and vitamin C. Phenolic compounds have antioxidant action on oxidative stress of the skin due to the ability to neutralize free radicals being molecules associated with the prevention of skin damage. Carotenoids are also antioxidants and act in photosensitivity disorders, such as erythema. The pulp also has a significant concentration of Vitamin C. Antioxidant molecules also act to prevent damage to hair fibers. UVA radiation on the hair causes the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Studies show that this photo oxidation involves breaking the bonds between carbon and sulfur (CS) of proteins. It also causes oxidation of lipids (important for hydrophobicity and protection of the hair) and degradation of melanin. The mechanical properties of the thread are impaired when the cysteine oxidation to cystic acid occurs. Regarding macrominerals, caja has a high magnesium, potassium, and phosphorus content.

The caja tree

With one of the most incredible biodiversity in the world, Brazil has numerous fruit species, including the caja tree that belongs to the Anacardiaceae family, Spondias genus. Caja tree is found in the tropical areas of America, Asia, Africa, and in Brazil mainly in the regions North and Northeast. It produces a fruit known as cajá or taperebá (Spondias mombin L) in Brazil; ciruela amarilla in Mexico and Ecuador; jobo in Central America and hog plum or yellow mombin in North America.

Functions

The phenolic compounds and carotenoids present in FRULIX CAJÁ contribute to the improvement of the elasticity of the skin and have antioxidant and dermoprotecting activity. FRULIX CAJÁ is also recommended for formulations of hair care products for its protective and nutritive qualities.

Usage levels

FRULIX CAJÁ is compatible with the majority of ingredients used in cosmetic formulations for the treatment of skin and hair and may be incorporated cold, directly into the aqueous phase of the formulas, in accordance with the suggestions of usage levels found in the table below. It is stable at temperatures up to 90°C, in pH conditions from 4.00 to 11.00.

INCI NAME

Hypnea Musciformis Extract, Gelidiella Acerosa Extract, Sargassum Filipendula Extract, Sorbitol, Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate.

Ormagel XPU

Ormagel XPU is a high-performance active ingredient for the treatment of hair, developed through the extraction of red and brown algae in special conditions, using a proprietary technology (MPCS) that modifies the plant cell structure and allows for the extraction of highly active fractions.

The careful combination of molecules extracted from different algae results in an ingredient with enhanced cosmetic activity.

Ormagel XPU is substantive to hair due to the affinity between sulphated polysaccharides present in the algae with the keratin amino radicals, forming a protective, moisturizing mesh over the hair fibers.

Haircare
Protection against photochemical oxidation damage

A recent study has revealed a new pathway of hair damage involving Cystine photolysis mediated by UV-activated Tryptophan. According to the study, Tryptophan present in the fibers is photo-activated by  UV and transfers the energy to the Cystine double bond, leading to its rupture and generating Cysteine. After a series of photo-oxidations  Cysteine is oxidized to Cysteic Acid.  The ability of ORMAGEL XPU to react with hair proteins and block the photoactivation of Tryptophan was already known by the scientists at Assessa who carried out a new study to verify if this effect would be efficient to block the photo-oxidative damage pathway to the hair.

Protection against hair photochemical oxidation

The results showed that hair treated with 0.8% in shampoo and conditioner and 2% in leave-on showed a 38% reduction in Cystine degradation when compared to a placebo, demonstrating THE EFFECTIVENESS of ORMAGEL XPU in the PROTECTION OF HAIR against the DAMAGE caused by UV-INDUCED  OXIDATION.

Moisturization of the chemically damaged hair

ORMAGEL XPU increases hair moisture by 18% in chemically damaged hair.

Water retention enthalpy of vaporization

ORMAGEL XPU increases water retention in the hair. This difference in evaporation profiles shows that the water retained in the hair treated with products formulated with ORMAGEL XPU is adsorbed in a more complex form than the water adsorbed in the hair treated with products formulated without ORMAGEL XPU.

Measurement of gloss

The substantive mesh of polysaccharides of ORMAGEL XPU aligns the cuticles of the hair, recovering its gloss and healthy/natural look.

Scalp Protection

ORMAGEL XPU helps protect the scalp against irritation caused by aggressive chemicals.

Cuticle Alignment

ORMAGEL XPU protects and aligns the cuticles of the hair.

Control

Intact cuticle, positioned along the hair strand.

Hair straightened without ORMAGEL XPU

Damaged and open cuticles.

Hair straightened with ORMAGEL XPU

Intact cuticles, protected and positioned along the hair strand.

Usage level

INCI NAME

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate

Grape
Natural antioxidant and vascular protector

The cultivation of grapes dates back to the earliest days of the history of civilization. Its believed that the plant originates from Asia Minor and was cultivated by the Egyptians and pressed by the ancient Greeks to make wine. The plants currently cultivated are the result of various crossings between varieties originally from Europe and North America carried out with a view to preserving the resistance, productivity, beauty and flavor of the fruits. Fresh grapes contain glycids, proteins, vitamins B1, B2, B5, B6 and PP, as well as provitamin A, mineral salts (especially potassium) and antioxidant anthocyanins. Grapes act as a natural antioxidant and are recommended as a vascular protector in diets for the prevention of heart disease.

Functions

Grapes are rich in hydroxy acids, vitamins, essential sugars, antioxidant bioflavonoids and mineral salts. FRULIX UVA (GRAPE) possesses astringent, nutrient and protective properties and is recommended in products for the treatment of aged and tired skin and in nutritive and protective creams and lotions. FRULIX UVA (GRAPE) may also be used in products for the treatment of dull, lifeless hair, for conditioning and protection in leave-on and rinse off products.

Antioxidant action

The test for antioxidant action was carried out in accordance with the Fenton protocol, comparing FRULIX UVA (GRAPE) with a saline solution (placebo) and with mannitol as a positive control. The graph below shows the antioxidant action compared to the action of the saline solution.

Inhibition of decomposition of deoxy-ribose (Fenton)

FRULIX UVA (GRAPE) shows good antioxidant activity when compared to the placebo (89.4%).

Applications

Usage levels

FRULIX UVA (GRAPE) is compatible with the majority of ingredients used in cosmetic formulations for the treatment of skin and hair and may be incorporated cold, directly into the aqueous phase of the formulas, in accordance with the suggestions of usage levels found in the table below. lt is stable at temperatures up to 90°C, in pH conditions from 4.00 to 11.00.

INCI NAME

Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate

Lemon
One of the best known and most widely used fruits in the world

The lemon tree is originally from SoutheastAsia. A member of the Rutaceae family, lemon trees are small (they don’t grow over 6 meters in height), thorny trees with many branches and light-brown bark and branches. The flowers are axillary, white or violet and clustered. It flourishes in hot or temperate regions. Lemon is the fruit of the lemon tree (Citrus x limon). Used from 1742 by the British navy to combat scurvy, lemons became popular in Brazil during the so-called Spanish Flu (the global epidemic of 1918), but it was only in the 1930s that the substance which combats scurvy was isolated and identified: ascorbic acid or vitamin C.

Lemon juice contains approximately 500 milligrams of vitamin C and 50 grams of citric acid per litre.  Lemons also possess limonene, a natural, organic, chemical substance belonging to the terpene family, found in citrus fruits (mainly in the peel of limes and oranges), which is volatile and responsible for the smell given off by these fruits. Today one of the best known and most widely used fruits in the world, lemons contain vitamins B1, B2 and B3, pro-vitamin A (carotene) – which is mainly found in the peel –and vitamin A in the fresh pulp and juice. They possess large quantities of mineral salts and oligoelements such as calcium, iron, silicon, phosphorous, copper, magnesium and iodine, in addition to appreciable percentages of citric and malic acids, and small quantities of acetic and formic acids, as well as potassium and sodium citrates.

Composition

Aplications

Vitamins, proteins and bioflavonoids present in FRULIX LIMÃO (LEMON) help to improve the elasticity of the skin, in addition to possessing antioxidant and dermoprotective properties. Due to its protective and nutritive properties, is also recommended for hair-care products.

Usage levels

FRULIX LIMÃO (LEMON) is compatible with the majority of ingredients used in cosmetic formulations for the treatment of hair, and may be incorporated cold, directly into the aqueous phase of the formulas, in accordance with the suggestions for concentration found in the table below.

It is stable at temperatures of up to 90°C, in pH conditions ranging from 4.00 to 11.00.

INCI NAME

Plinia Cauliflora Fruit Extract, Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate

Jabuticaba

Jabuticaba is a member of the Myrtaceae family. Is a Brazilian fruit tree native to the Atlantic Rainforest, principally in the high altitude rainforest and sub-forest. Widely grown in vegetable gardens and backyards, its small fruits with black skin and white pulp adhered to the single seed, grow on the trunk and branches, giving a peculiar appearance to the tree, which blooms twice a year. Associated with childhood in the affective memory of Brazilians who live or lived in houses with backyards, jabuticaba is a very versatile fruit, which can be consumed naturally, or in ice cream and jellies or even used in the manufacture of alcoholic beverages, such as liqueurs and homemade wines.

Functions

Consumed raw, Jabuticaba is a source of calcium, iron and phosphorus, and also has a good amount of vitamin C and some complex B vitamins, especially niacin. It has astringent, anti-inflammatory, antiasthmatic and diuretic properties. Jabuticaba is rich in hydroxy acids, essential sugars, antioxidant bioflavonoids and mineral salts. FRULIX JABUTICABA has nutrient and protective properties and is indicated for the treatment of dull hair and for conditioning in leave-on products. It is also recommended in products for the treatment of aged and tired skin.

Usage levels

FRULIX JABUTICABA is compatible with the majority of ingredients used in cosmetic formulations for the treatment of skin and hair, and may be incorporated cold, directly into the aqueous phase of the formulas, in accordance with the suggestions for concentration found in the table below. lt is stable at temperatures of up to 90°C, in pH conditions from 4.00 to 11.00.

INCI NAME

Fragaria Vesca (strawberry) Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus (raspberry) Fruit Extract, Malpighia Glabra (acerola) Fruit Extract, Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate

The fruits

Strawberries and raspberries are rich in mucilages, sugars, organic acids, flavonoids and mineral salts such as potassium, magnesium, calcium and manganese, having protective and astringent properties. Acerola, in addition to the high levels of vitamin C, also has considerable amounts of vitamins A, B1 and B2, being also rich in calcium, iron and phosphorus. The combination of these three fruits results in a product of high cosmetic activity, with hydrating (sugars and fruit acids), protective (anthocyanins and bioflavonoids combined), nourishing and reinforcing (essential sugars and mineral salts) properties that are incomparable.

Strawberry

Strawberry plant is the common name given to plants of the Rosaceae family, of the Fragaria genus. Produces a fruit known for its delicate taste, and has been cultivated and consumed for centuries. The plants currently cultivated are the result of various crossings between varieties of wild plants originally from Europe, North and South America

Raspberry

The raspberry belongs to the Rosaceae family. This small fruit, also called red raspberry or European raspberry is a red-fruited species of Rubus native to Europe and northern Asia and commonly cultivated in other temperate regions.

Acerola

The Acerola plant belongs to the Malpighiaceae family and is a bush or shrub of 2.5 m in height with a dense crown formed of small (2-8 cm) shiny dark green leaves. lts flowers range in color from pink to violet. The fruit is a drupe with a smooth surface and is divided into three segments.

Functions

FRULIX COMPLEXO FRUTAS VERMELHAS (RED FRUITS COMPLEX) has astringent, nutrient and protective properties and is indicated in formulas for hair hydration and protection. FRULIX COMPLEXO FRUTAS VERMELHAS (RED FRUITS COMPLEX) is especially recommended for the treatment of chemically treated and damaged hair. The nourishing and moisturizing properties of these fruits also make FRULIX RED FRUITS COMPLEX suitable for skincare.

Usage levels

FRULIX COMPLEXO FRUTAS VERMELHAS (RED FRUITS COMPLEX) is compatible with the majority of ingredients used in cosmetic formulations for the treatment of skin and hair and may be incorporated cold, directly into the aqueous phase of the formulas, in accordance with the suggestions of usage levels found in the table below. It is stable at temperatures up to 90°C, in pH conditions from 4.00 to 11.00.

INCI NAME

Mangifera Indica (mango) Fruit Extract, Passiflora Edulis (passion fruit) Fruit Extract, Theobroma Grandiflorum (cupuaçu) Fruit Extract, Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate

The fruits

Mango is extremely rich in bioflavonoids and vitamin A and contains reasonable quantities of complex B vitamins and vitamin C, as well as mineral salts, principally iron. Passion fruit pulp is rich in antioxidant bioflavonoids and important minerals like potassium, calcium and magnesium, containing reasonable levels of vitamin C and A. Cupuaçu possesses high levels of moisturizing mucilages, antioxidant tannins and organic silicon, which is of great importance in the physical structure of the hair and the structural balance of the skin. The combination of these three fruits produces an ingredient with excellent protecting (anthocyanidins and combined bioflavonoids), nutritive and reinforcing properties (essential sugars and mineral salts).

Cupuaçu

A native of the Amazon, the cupuaçu fruit is cylindrical in form weighing from 800 to 1500 grams. The extremeties are round, the
skin is a dark, ligneous brown and a white pulp covers the seeds. Aromatic, with a bittersweet taste, cupuaçu is used in drinks, conserves, ice creams, candies and a special conhaque known as “cupuaçu wine”.

Mango

The mango, originally from lndia, is a tropical tree which belongs to the Anacardiaceae family. ln Brazil, there are around five hundred types of mango, varying widely in size, shape and color. The skin can be green, yellow or red, depending on the variety. The pulp is succulent and has a color that ranges from light yellow to dark orange.

Passion fruit

The plants which produce the passion fruit are exhuberant creepers of the Passifloraceae family. Consumed as a fruit raw or in the form of juice, ice cream, candy or even accompanying alcoholic drinks, the passion fruit has been used by the native americans since pre-colonial times, as a powerful medicament.

Functions

Mango, passion fruit and cupuaçu are nutritive fruits, rich in vitamins, mucilages, antioxidant flavonoids, tannins and essential mineral salts. FRULIX COMPLEXO PROTETOR (PROTECTING COMPLEX) presents protective, emollient and remineralizing properties and is recommended for use in haircare products, in formulas for the treatment and reinforcing of hair fibers, nutrition and protection for weakened hair. In skincare products, FRULIX COMPLEXO PROTETOR (PROTECTING COMPLEX) acts as a protecting and nutritive agent.

Usage levels

FRULIX COMPLEXO PROTETOR (protecting complex) is compatible with the majority of ingredients used in cosmetic formulations for the treatment of skin and hair and may be incorporated cold, directly into the aqueous phase of the formulas, in accordance with the suggestions of usage levels found in the table below. It is stable at temperatures up to 90°C, in pH conditions from 4.00 to 11.00.

INCI NAME

Theobroma Grandiflorum Fruit Extract, Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate

Frulix Cupuaçu
The fruit seeds are used as base in cosmetic creams and lipsticks

A native of the Amazon, the cupuaçu tree measures 3 to 6 meters in height. The fruit, cylindrical in form, has a diameter of approximately 13 cm and measures around 20 cm in height, weighing from 800 to 1500 grams. The extremeties are round, the skin is a dark, ligneous brown and a white pulp covers the seeds. Aromatic, with a bittersweet taste, cupuaçu is used in drinks, conserves, ice creams, candies, liquor and a special conhaque known as “cupuaçu wine”. Cupuaçu fat extracted from the seeds is used in the making of chocolate and in cosmetics as base for creams and lipsticks.

FRULIX Cupuaçu is obtained through an exclusive biotechnological process that mimics the natural ripening of the fruit. Using the fruits’ native enzymes, that act in the texture during its ripening, Assessa transforms it´s pulp into a crystalline liquid with all the active ingredients in concentrations equivalent to those found in nature.

Composition

Proteins (mg/L)

Minerals

Vitamins (*)

(*) Tested after 4 months from manufacturing.

Antioxidant Activity

The test for antioxidant activity was carried out in accordance with the Fenton protocol, comparing FRULIX CUPUAÇU with a saline solution (placebo) and with manitol as a positive control. The graph below shows the antioxidant activity compared to the action of the saline solution.

INHIBITION OF DECOMPOSITION OF DEOXY-RIBOSE (FENTON)

FRULIX CUPUAÇU shows good antioxidant activity (75.4%) when compared to placebo.

Usage levels

FRULIX Cupuaçu is compatible with the majority of ingredients used in cosmetic formulations for the treatment of skin and hair and may be incorporated cold, directly into the aqueous phase of the formulas, in accordance with the suggestions of usage levels in the table below. It is stable at temperatures up to 90°C in pH conditions from 4.00 to 11.00.